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'Work hard, stay loyal, and the system will reward you': the Boomer credo is a Gen X betrayal and a Millennial pipe dream

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RetailIPOs

Birkenstock may soon file for an IPO showing its iconic sandals business is worth billions and that Wall Street’s appetite for new stocks is back

By
Swetha Gopinath
Swetha Gopinath
,
Eyk Henning
Eyk Henning
, and
Ruth David
Ruth David
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By
Swetha Gopinath
Swetha Gopinath
,
Eyk Henning
Eyk Henning
, and
Ruth David
Ruth David
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July 31, 2023, 2:18 PM ET
Birkenstock shoes.
Birkenstock shoes. Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images
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L Catterton is set to launch an initial public offering of Birkenstock as soon as September that may value the iconic footwear maker at more than $8 billion, people with knowledge of the matter said.

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The private equity firm backed by luxury French fashion house LVMH is working with Goldman Sachs Group Inc. and JPMorgan Chase & Co. on a potential listing of Birkenstock in the US, Bloomberg News reported earlier this month. 

A listing could value the German sandal maker at as much as $10 billion, according to one of the people. The company’s sales have been boosted of late by the blockbuster Barbie movie, which stars Margot Robbie in the title role donning a pair of pink Birkenstocks in one scene. 

Deliberations are ongoing and no final decisions on the size or timing of an IPO have been taken, the people said, asking not to be identified discussing confidential information. Representatives for Birkenstock and L Catterton declined to comment. 

Founded nearly 250 years ago, Birkenstock has become a high-fashion brand, launching collaborations with luxury names such as Dior, Manolo Blahnik, and Valentino, and spawning variants from labels including Celine and Givenchy. Its sandals have been sold in the U.S. since 1966.

Birkenstock saw revenue rise 29% to roughly €1.2 billion ($1.3 billion) last year, leading to adjusted earnings of €394 million, according to a lender presentation seen by Bloomberg News. It’s been investing heavily in building out its production sites in Germany, including a new €120 million factory in Pasewalk, a town north of Berlin. 

An IPO of Birkenstock would come more than two years after the L Catterton and the family investment company of billionaire Bernard Arnault acquired a majority stake in the business, valuing it at about €4 billion. 

The U.S. market for IPOs looks like it’s finally coming back to life after 18 months in the doldrums, boosted by the recent success of restaurant chain Cava Group Inc.’s debut.

The Fortune 500 Innovation Forum will convene Fortune 500 executives, U.S. policy officials, top founders, and thought leaders to help define what’s next for the American economy, Nov. 16-17 in Detroit. Apply here.
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